The Vietnamese Performing Arts Group's First Visit to Vietnam

All Photographs by Eric McAllister

Sunday December 19, 2004 - Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

A few of us had been planning this for more than two years. It was a long time coming, but The Vietnamese Performing Arts Group finally took their first trip to Vietnam in December of 2004. The story that follows is just a tiny sample of the people we met and what we experienced and learned while we were there. In total, VPAG were 10 travel companions as we made the trek from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) to Hanoi to Ha Long Bay to Hanoi to Hue to Nha Trang back to Ho Chi Minh City. Keep in mind that only Danny Nguyen had ever been to Vietnam before--and even he had never been north of Phan Thiet, so even Nha Trang and Cam Ranh were new and exotic to all of us.

Due to individual vacation schedules and travel plans, it took about three days for all but one of us to gather in Ho Chi Minh City. Lane Hiers was able to get there a few days ahead of us all. In short order, Lane was joined by Ashley James and Kathryn Golden. Next to arrive were Nan Busse, Tobey Kaplan, and Jaime Rangeley. Very late Saturday December 18, everyone turned out at the airport to greet Tiffany Barbarash, Danny Nguyen, and Eric McAllister as Danny made his first visit to Vietnam since 1982. A few days later, Emily Mizuno was the last to arrive as we said our goodbyes to Lane and the rest of us flew to Hanoi and began to experience people and parts of the world that none of us had before.

Upon Danny's arrival in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly, Saigon), we wasted no time. On that first morning, all red eyed and dazed we were off to find his childhood home. With the help of our trusty Vietnamese friend and tour guide, Vinh Phu Hong, we all piled into a van and were in the Tan Binh District of Ho Chi Minh City in no time. A short walk down a narrow side street lead us to 49 Nguyen Thanh Tuyen. All eyes were on Danny, noting his surprise at how much things can change in more than 20 years. But as neighborhoods go, we soon found old friends who recalled the Nguyen family and much more of the life Danny had growing up in Tan Binh District.

Danny's old home had indeed changed, morphing from a house into a very small one-machine work shop with a new two story home behind. But as things change, there are always constants. Several pieces of fine wood furniture from the missing Nguyen residence graced the newer home.

Soon we found ourselves hungering for our first dining experience in Vietnam. Vinh brought us to a restaurant nearby and the first of many dining parties ensued. It is amazing fun traveling in a large group. If you don't feel like ordering and love food, just sit back and let it happen. Within minutes we were dining, laughing, and caught up in the local atmosphere. We relaxed. We ate. We were already caught up in actually being here. And we were ready for our next taste.
After lunch we were headed to meet up with a group of orphans to share our love of dance. We had to go meet with the staff that ran and managed the orphanage first. But we couldn't get into one taxi. We split up. We were moments away from keystone cops as our two taxi drivers tried to communicate and anticipate each other's moves and out-do each other at finding the office first. For a few moments the smaller taxi group of us was lost, but all ended up well as the driver realized his wrong turn and caught up with the others. From there, we all piled into a large van again and made our way to the orphanage.

One thing you can almost always say about children is that they are resilient and have nothing but love to give. These kids were great. It was hot, humid, and a little dusty. But while we were there, it was as if this day was set aside as a celebration. And, indeed, it was. VPAG spent a few hours with them in a free format dance, music, and singing workshop. They didn't need any much coaching or encouragement. They were ready to go. They could sing. They could play the music. All we had to do was teach and lead the dance. How easy was that? We brought along a few disposable cameras for the children to take their own pictures. Is that the next Ansel Adams or Annie Leibovitz I see there? Could be. Wait and see because things change fast and children become adults even faster.
So we're finally getting tired. The kids aren't tired, of course. After all, they are kids. So what next? The orphans treated VPAG to their own traditional Vietnamese water puppet show. They set up the stage (really, a pool of murky water to hide the puppet controls). They had a blast, and so did we. As you might expect from folk art, the tradition of water puppetry has a rural background. The story we heard was that water puppetry was a harvest season celebration. When rice paddies were emptied at harvest and families and communities were happy with what they had achieved, the paddies became a perfect stage for an art form to emerge on. Farmers erected simple sets that shielded them (the performers behind the performers) and hid their movement of the puppets with long poles under the water. It was only a matter of time before this art form morphed into one that could be transported, shared with, and appreciated by a wider audience. These inverse marionettes are something to see. Fish, dragons, farmers, birds, children, oxen, fox, and even the royal pageantry of the court.
We will forever appreciate the performance that the children provided. As a group, it was probably the quietest and most focused we would be together throughout the whole trip. It was a great rest for us after the dance workshop was over and just before jet lag really start to set in. The temperature was finally cooling, the light became long, and we became children once more caught up in the stories and tales told by others. Lack of a common language was no barrier on this day. Laughter, smiles, and the unassuming gaze of the young told us all we needed to know. Later we would see this traditional puppetry performed in Hanoi, but the orphan's heartfelt rendition was difficult to beat.
It was a long ride back in the van. A vibe was in the air that the weekend was over and tomorrow was to be yet another Monday for everyone. We dined in a roadside market. A small child nodded off to sleep dozens of times in the arms of an older sister nearby. The sun set on our first full day together in Vietnam. We were exhausted and couldn't wait for more. We couldn't believe what Sunday had been and here already it was about to be Monday.


Monday December 20, 2004 - Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

One of the reasons we had for visiting Vietnam was the volume of authentic costumes and options available to us. So it was settled—it should be noted with easily and with little argument—the Vietnamese Performing Arts Group was in need of authentic Vietnamese costumes. Danny and Vinh checked with the hotel staff and Vinh check with his friends. After some Pho and coffee we were off to the Cho Ben Thanh Market and the shops in the surrounding area.

Our first stop was m. chi which was tiny but packed with style, quality, and originality. Fittings for everyone. Our dancers were standing on top of each other, trying on outfits, asking questions, and negotiating for alterations and options. And, yes, there was the occasional purchase as gifts for family and friends back home. Why not? Did we mention it was Christmas in Vietnam and in the United States? It's uncertain whether or not they have ever had that many people in the shop all at once, but they handled it with aplomb—always gracious, helpful, and, most of all, experts at their work. That's Nan, happy with her first acquisition (she's still wearing it) and on to see what else she can find.

From m. chi's, it was just half a block walk to Cho Ben Thanh proper. First let's start by stating that it's large. Not large in the sense of America's mega-malls, but in a compact sense. How so many stalls and shops fit within one arena is amazing. Each one is packed from floor to ceiling, up the walls, and spilling into the aisles as much as possible. Some you don't think you'll be able to enter, but somehow you manage. The variety is vast from clothing to house wares to cooking utensils to fast food to groceries to sundries to arts and crafts. If you want something and are planning to return for it, take careful notes to map your return. It took a few visits for most of us to get the map right in our minds.

After shopping, what's next on a tourists' list? Sightseeing and fun, of course. It took us twice as long to return from market as it did to get there. There were cyclo rides and photographs. We had chilled coconut milk in coconut husks. Some took a quick moped ride. A stroll in the park, which seemed to have just been re-landscaped. A bit of fresh, juicy, sweet leechee? You won't find them this tasty in the U.S. Fun was in the air.

A little later, we split into small groups to go off on our first little adventures. A few of us walked over to see the Xa Loi Pagoda just as it was closing and the evening rush hour had begun. Some bought their first incense sticks while here after lots and lots and lots of confusion over the price.

A few of us made it over to the War Remnants Museum—perhaps the largest concentration of U.S. and European tourists we saw during the entire trip. It was interesting to see some of the same war image photographs we were familiar with growing up in the U.S. too, right out of Life Magazine. The lingering power of a single image, the arts and the media is wondrous thing. What an impact it can make on your memories years and years later.

Before we knew it, the day was over. We dined in an all-you-can-eat Vietnamese buffet not far from our hotel, the Nam Phuong. We ate our fill of fruit, salad, and a variety of dishes we were familiar with and some not so familiar. We returned more than once during our trip. Food would become a recurring theme during our journey. We looked forward to each meal and the experience it would provide. What would be new? What would be familiar, but beyond what we had experienced before?

Off to bed in our cozy rooms and shopped out, The Vietnamese Performing Arts Group was eager to see and learn some more the next day. An emotional journey lay ahead.

Tuesday December 21, 2004 - Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria

Break out those Vietnamese phrase books. We just might need them today. Early—very early in the morning we all piled into a van to head off for Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria. We stopped along the way for breakfast in an area with a roadside cafe and market that just happened to be in front of a dairy farm.
The locals were just getting around and preparing for their busy day, but were helpful and all seemed bouyed by the morning air. We saw some of the biggest jackfruit we had ever seen and couldn't pass up posing with them. Of course we had already learned that breakfast wouldn't be breakfast without a bit of Vietnamese coffee to wash it down and kickstart the day. When we made it to Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria, absolutely none of us were prepared for the sight. The Vietnamese fishing boats were unlike any we had seen before. Immediately we sensed the presence of community that each one must possess. But what struck the senses first were the vivid colors. Here in the U.S. we get so used to the drab white boats that we forget there are actually other options. These vessels were turquoise and blue and green and black, yellow, and red. And, thankfully, not a white boat among them. Being so different from what we were used to helped sear this memory into our minds. The fishing nets, upon which many worked, were blue and a vibrant red. Just amazing.
It was here, in Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria, that we also saw our first basket boats. Danny had described them to us, but it was difficult to imagine until we saw them. They are quick, sprite little shuttles used deftly to ferry between and among the other boats.

Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria is the place where Danny slipped out of Vietnam on a rickety boat packed with many other souls all trying to leave Vietnam for who knows where. This was the place he debarked from Vietnam and came to be with us. Were it not for a fateful trip starting here in Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria, we might never have met. It was a bit emotional for us all as we contemplated this. We had to ask around a bit to orient ourselves, but eventually ended up on a boat dock that Danny recalled.
It didn't take long before a small, curious crowd of onlookers gathered to see what we were up to. Being a good bit outside Ho Chi Minh City, it's probably not often that visitors from the U.S. come wandering through the allies and streets. Through speaking with them about Danny's experiences, we secured a small boat and captain that would take us out onto and across the water to the far shore.

Across this inlet, we landed at a fish processing plant where fish sauce was obviously being made. On the beach, were several derelict fishing boats that served as excellent impromptu sets for the dancers. This was such fun—like being a child again finding and exploring spots for the first time that no one aimed you at, but that felt more special to you because you had taken the time to seek them out. You'll never find this on a tourist map or route, but not one of us would have skipped exploring these abandoned boats.

(Click on this photograph to see the same full panoramic view we saw on the other side of the waterway.)
Our imaginations were alive and alert once more. What must it have been like for Danny and thousands of others as they slipped out of the country under cover of darkness? Who used to use these boats in the past on a daily basis and what did they catch or do? Soon the factory workers lost interest in us and we were like children in our own private playground.

On the way back to Ho Chi Minh City, we took a brief side trip to see the little Chon Tien Mountain Pagoda. Chon Tien Mountain is more of a large rocky hill, but the surrounding area is fairly flat so it affords a reasonable local view. Compared to the hustle and bustle of the city and the excitement of visiting Phuoc Tinh Ba Ria, we found Chon Tien Mountain Pagoda to be a welcome, serene break. It was quiet and the little hilltop was well shaded and protected by old and young trees. The climb to the top revealed little treasures and stories related to us involving tigers and a fairy footprint in the stone—all while little lizards scampered around sunning themselves.
(Click on this photograph to see the same full panoramic view we saw on top of the Chon Tien "Mountain.")
From there, it was back in the van and back on the road to Ho Chi Minh City. We had a quiet dinner and rested. Certainly, we all wondered what must it have been like to live through such desperate times. We all developed a little sense of it that day, beautifully tempered by the friendly faces of those we met and eased by the broken and translated conversations intended mostly to satisfy curiousity and achieve common understandings. But we all knew that only one among us would ever really know what it was like. And it was enough to be there with him for support if necessary, but more importantly, to know it would offer the opportunity to bring some part of closure closer to him.

Wednesday December 22, 2004 - Hanoi

The time had come. We were off to Hanoi early on the morning of December 22nd—very early. It was still dark out when we all packed, along with our luggage, into two small taxi vans. On our way to the airport, it was the first time we saw all the very early morning activity as people prepared to get to work and for the daily market.

We made it to the airport and took our first flight on Vietnam Airlines. We were all very pleasantly surprized. The jets were very new and in great condition. The flight crew and service was great. Once we landed at the Hanoi airport, we did the reverse jam-into-the-van ride and were at our hotel in short order.
Our hotel was one block from Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the Restored Sword) in the middle of Hanoi. Hoan Kiem Lake has wide, paved walking bath around its perimeter which is well shaded and pleasant to stroll or jog around. In the middle of the lake are a few small islands. On the small island is the Tortoise Tower that the emperor Le Loi had constructed in the 15th century. On a larger island sits the Ngoc Son temple which is reached by crossing a traditionally constructed and painted red foot bridge.

Realize that when Danny Nguyen was growing up in Vietnam, he had never been this far north. In fact, he had never been much farther north than Phan Thiet. For our group, this drove the excitement and fun up another notch. We still had our own translator, but suddenly every place and site was just as new to him too. Not only was he visiting Vietnam after a long time away, he was seeing entire parts of the country that he had never been able to experience before. Danny had become as much a tourist as the rest of us.

So what do tourists do when in Hanoi? They visit one of the few water puppetry theaters. We chose Mua Roi Nuoc Thang Long since it was right on the lake within our neighborhood. While the children at the orphanage had done themselves proud, it was also wonderful to see this art form in its fully produced splendor.
And what else do tourists—very hungry tourists—do? Well, the seek out the nearest or first street vendor they pass selling tasty sweets and sample the goods. And then they buy more because they liked the first round so much. The Hanoi air carries aromas of tasty delights from before sunrise to well after sunset.

Thursday December 23, 2004 - Hanoi

Today was a free day for us all. We split into small groups and followed the tourist bent. After sampling the hotel breakfast and a brief run around the lake for some, we split into small groups. Some of us took a quick visit to the Bach Ma Temple, not far from the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake. Some of us got out the map and trekked our way by foot to see the reconstructed "One Pillar" Pagoda. For those who stayed close to the hotel, there was even a display of mordern sculptures along the path on the west bank of the lake. And of course there was shopping street side and throughout the meandering traditional by-goods-type streets of Hanoi. We did note that one challenge was to be sure to pick your visual landmarks carefully for your return trip when out shopping. A few of us stayed out as the shops began to close and draw down their metal shutters over the store facades. The streets look much different with all the good hidden and you must rely on your mental map of the structures behind the goods to get you back to your original departure point.
Not two blocks from our hotel, facing Hoan Kiem Lake we could visit a courtyard and statue high upon a column honoring King Ly Thai who founded the capital city Thang Long (as Ha Noi was called then) in the eleventh century. A few of us strolled off to see the Temple of Literature which was Vietnam's first university parts of which date back to the eleventh century A.D. There are a few lotus ponds and old, stately trees gracing the grounds. Many of the structures in this rectangular plot of land are mirrored on each side. A few small, open air halls and temples dot the grounds. Paved walkways meander around and through ornate gates from one section to another. Humbly, stellae memorialize and honor the doctorates earned by Bhuddist scholars through the ages in Vietnam. Here too as at Hoan Kiem Lake, we see the turtle revered for its long life tirelessly resting the stellae on their backs in rows shaded by pagoda style roofs.
By dinner time, we were all back at the hotel and sharing our experiences. We ate dinner nearby on the third (or fourth?) floor of a small restaurant that seemed to go up floor-by-floor forever. Our morning runners noted that a group of Vietnamese ladies were practicing fan dances by the lake when they ran by. Even though we already had plans for a day at Ha Long Bay, we also agreed to get up as early as possible to try and see the ladies practicing their fan dances.

Friday December 24, 2004 - Ha Long Bay

Early in the morning, we couldn't find the fan dancers. So the group passed the time for a while walking through one of their regular warm-up routines. Soon our jogging scouts reported back that the ladies were indeed practicing fan dance at another spot along the walkway. The group scurried over to join the fun as more morning light slowly filled the sky.
Our impromptu hosts were wonderful. They quickly welcomed us into the lesson without so much as missing a step. Suddenly we were a multi-cultural student body. Fans were provided and we were expected to keep the pace.
In about 30 minutes, many of the students had to leave for their daily work and activities. But our host stayed a while longer giving the group another private, focused lesson since none of us had seen this choreography before. Two of them stayed to lead us on as buses, taxis, and bicycles zipped past us on the street. Bonus—our fan dance lesson also turned into a lesson on counting in Vietnamese!
Want to see part of our "private" lesson?

Click here to play (or right-click to download and play) a 14-second MPEG from our lesson.
Warning: this is a large file, approximately 2.4 Mb in size.
You will also need an MPEG player or plug-in player to watch it.
Before bidding us farewell, our instructor passed on a few last tips. And, most importantly, she gave us some shopping advice on where to pick up fans and what to focus on going forward. Truly a splendid event we couldn't have planned better, but all the more memorable because we hadn't.
After the fan dance lesson, we quickly joined our tour guide for the day and hopped into another van for our ride to Ha Long Bay. It's about a three hour drive accounting for traffic and a pit stop, but well worth the journey. We found what seemed like easily one hundred tour boats all docked side-by-side at the bay loading view seekers for the day. Since we were a group of seven by this point, we were still a large enough group to rent a boat ourselves which included lunch on the boat and several stops along the way. The final island stop was to get out and tour one of the large caverns. Simply stated, even though our day was overcast and gray, the scenes were spectacular. What a beautiful, if not unusual, way for us to spend our Christmas Eve day—cruising around Ha Long Bay quietly on a breezy, chilly day in Vietnam.


(Click on this photograph to see the same full panoramic view we saw.)


Back in Hanoi that evening, we all packed up and prepared to say goodbye to Hanoi in the morning. As if to send us on our way, Christmas Eve was a spectacle. Everyone—literally everyone— was out on the streets celebrating the holiday. Crossing the street at first seemed like taking your life in your own hands, but then it became so busy that motorbikes couldn't even move very quickly. We got to see some holiday lights, regardless. In the morning, we were off to Hue.

Saturday December 25, 2004 - Hue

Early on Christmas morning, we trundled off to the Hanoi Airport and waved our farewells to the city as it slept. Like magic, we were in Hue by lunch time. In Hue, we had arranged to meet up with one of the local, traditional musicians. Her hospitality was as we had seen in previous encounters in Vietnam—splendid. She had the afternoon already planned for us. With only one and a half days in Hue, she didn't want us to miss a thing.
Since we would be seeing some traditional performances in Hue, she thought it would be appropriate to see some of the Hue historical sites. First, we went to see the memorial tomb of Emporer Khai Dinh. Built with many levels working its way up the hillside, it offered scenic views of the surrounding woodlands. Oddly enough, it turned out that some of the guard statues at the tomb looked exactly like members from the Nguyen Dance Company, even if their clothes did seem a bit modern to us.
The day had turned balmy, if not warm, and after a brief roadside lunch we went to see the tomb of Tu Duc. The tomb of Tu Duc was on flatter patch of land, sprawling and meandering much more than the tomb of Khai Dinh. Courtyards with arched gates are spotted with buildings, monuments, and stellae. An ornate boathouse and pond are there. We noticed that in the cobblestone walkways, many small animal footprints can be found—so many that we assume they were created on purpose.

The afternoon had turned quite hot, so our guide sped off in front of our van leading on her motorcycle. We returned to check into our hotel and take a quick nap and refresh ourselves before the evening festivities began.
By nightfall, the ambient tempurature had returned to a very comfortable level. Our guide had arranged for us to float on the Perfume River on a houseboat while the group of musicians she works with performed for us. A steel bridge with multiple arches spans the river and at night the arches are light with an every changing variety of colored lights. It made a lovely backdrop out the windows of our boat as the Hue musicians played and sang for us.
Our musical hosts performed several traditional folk songs and some more recent Vietnames music. As with all artists, it was clear that they truly enjoyed their craft wanted others to see what they saw in it. We learned that their lives are not disimilar to ours. Most of the musicians had day jobs, like we do, to support them and to allow them the free time to pursue and study their art. There is a kinship in this, regardless the different backgrounds and experiences. We understood their emotion and intent without understanding the words.
After the music and song, we participated in a local tradition. We lit candles in colored, paper lanterns that float and released them slowly, one by one onto the calm surface of the gentle river. Whether we understood the purpose or not, the beauty of the act as the lanterns passed from our control was enought. As the lanterns drifted away, we contemplated the day and noted the many docked boats were families were having dinner and turning in for the evening. Hue breathed a sigh and sent us back on our way to do the same at our hotel.

Sunday December 26, 2004 - Hue

Today, we would have to send a few more of our group on their way back to Ho Chi Minh City for their return trip home. But first, we had to get a few more items done before they could leave. Not the least of which was to sample more of the local cuisine. More soft, warm, sweet tofu? More morning glory greens? Yes, please.
We had time today to tour the Hue Capital Citadel, Kinh Thanh Hue, dating back to the days when Hue was the capital of the southern Nguyen Lords and eventually the capital of all of Vietnam. Here, like nesting Russian dolls, the Imperial Enclosure (Hoang Thanh) is a smaller walled fortress inside the 10 km Citadel perimeter. Inside the Imperial Enclosure, is the Forbidden Purple City. Here, we were treated to a performance by the Royal Performers. We saw lantern dances and their intricately performed movements. We heard traditional mucisians. We saw a lion dance. And we even saw a few faces we recognized from the performance the night before.
It was time to part ways with Tiffany Barbarash and Jaime Rangelee. While they headed for home, the remaining five from our crew piled into a rented van and went with our hired driver down the highway towards Nha Trang. If you can, a drive along part of the coast is a wonderful way to spend part of your trip. We went up and down through a few mountain passes, taking in the green and blue vistas before us. Mountains. Rice paddies. Trains. Bays and inlets. As the sun set, the colors changed but we savored every moment. We stopped at a family home/restaurant for dinner after dark. We were the only diners but our hosts treated us well and feed us till we had to go. We rolled into Nha Trang at about 4:00 a.m. in the morning tired and looking for a quick catnap.

Monday December 27, 2004 - Nha Trang

One side of Nha Trang runs along a long, slowly curve beach that borders a large inlet and nestles a few islands. A long road that divides the beach from the hotels, which run for about two kilometers. We quickly found a day boat tour that included lunch and visits to four islands. The day was warm and perfect for this tour.
Our group sampled more food including sea urchin soup made from urchins brought to the boat and prepared right before we ate it. It was delicious and the rest of lunch was too. After lunch, we had our first basket boat ride. The calm flat water protected by an island inlet made it seem all the more safe for our first try. A few of the group tried their hand at paddling and steering and quickly learned to leave it to the experts.

Tuesday December 28, 2004 - Nha Trang

Having seen and experienced the coast from topside, we made arrangements the night before to take in a day of scuba and snorkeling. It turned out that this day would be about 15 to 20 degrees cooler and very breezy. We still had fun, but it was a chilly outing.
We made the most of the day. Tomorrow morning, we would be back in Ho Chi Minh City. And three more of us would have to go home. Our trip through Vietnam was ending.

Wednesday December 29, 2004 — January 2, 2005 - Ho Chi Minh City

Well only two of us remained now: Danny Nguyen and Eric McAllister. On Thursday, we spent some time observing a Bong Sen dance rehearsal and meeting a few of the dancers. On Friday, we saw their performance in a theater not far from our hotel.
On Saturday, we rang in the new year in Vietnam. On Sunday, we were also on our way home. One thing is certain: We'll come back to visit Vietnam again.